Chloé has always sought to illuminate the women it dresses, and Chemena Kamali’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is true to this vision. In the creative director’s third collection for the brand, she draws from Chloé’s history—one she is well acquainted with as a former assistant to Phoebe Philo, who was creative director from 2001 to 2006, an iconic era of the French luxury fashion house.
Slouching silhouettes, long bell sleeves, silk ruffles, and cropped houndstooth blazers appear throughout the collection rooted in New York’s artistic orbits of the late ‘70s, from Art Deco aesthetics to Andy Warhol’s notorious Factory parties. A black, billowing summer dress with a tiered frame and cinched bishop sleeves is adorned with a gold fil de coupé pattern that embraces the natural movement of the body. Another brings the eccentricity of the house to the forefront with a boxy leopard-print jacket, a blush-pink ruffled skirt, and sneakers that emulate boxing shoes. Breezy, natural forms and gilt garments embrace effortless movement that evoke a free spirit.
Kamali’s designs speak to the spirit of the current Chloé girls such as Sienna Miller, Emma Mackey, Greta Gerwig, and Zoe Saldaña, who wore refreshing bohemian looks to this year’s Met Gala. These designs set the tone for the creative director’s debut: an invigorating take on the laid-back yet glamorous ethos of the house, complete with dreamy chiffon and long, dramatic dresses. The styles are both aspirational and effortless: It’s easy to imagine women draped in Chloé as they traipse along beaches or walk the red carpet at Cannes.
Inspiration for Kamali’s Chloé stretches beyond the muses of the moment and extends to aesthetic touchstones of the past. The gold-varnished black scaffolding of Karl Lagerfeld's 1970’s Paris apartment can be seen echoed in Chloè’s fringe, gold accents, black lace, and strategically placed ruffles—all classic elements of the fashion house’s effortless rive gauche look. These textures offer a window into the creative director’s cultural reference points and affirms that Chloé is more than a brand: It is an entire world.