Pop-ups are a dime a dozen in New York, the food capital of the world with the least patience. So what happens when The Polo Bar, one of the most difficult restaurants to get a table at, temporarily exits the city? Magic.
A buttery, medium-rare burger glistens beside a leaf of crispy potato wedge fries and a prickly chartreuse pickle. Beside you are the necessary accoutrement for any successful New York gathering: an odd-ball group of stylish internationals, an undeniably sexy space, and extra-chilled martinis with no supply shortage in sight. The quintessentially-Manhattan night could exist at any decent bistro anywhere across the island; say the old-new Pastis off the revived Meatpacking district, or further south, my personal go-to The Odeon. But especially uptown at The Polo Bar, Ralph Lauren's iconic embodiment of his iconic American brand with popovers that will leave you lusting for seconds (which your handsome server will promise they never do no matter how many times you ask.)
Tonight I am indeed at The Polo Bar—but not at its usual subterranean den off of Fifth. No, I'm three or so hours away, in Bridgehampton but the experience is the same, or dare I say it, even better, because for one night only Ralph brought the restaurant out east—and it was fabulous.
The occasion is, of course, fashion week. Rather than a lone runway in the fashion of other fashion brands, Ralph Lauren chose to hold what his company has termed a "worlds" show, marrying its multi-categorical brands across an unforgettable experience.
Entering Khalily Stables, a 19-acre equestrian compound of stalls, barns, riding arenas, and grassy paddocks, it begins with a staple from The Polo Bar: pigs in a blanket, while other relics from Ralph Lauren Home—chic, beach-y furniture and creamy, clean textiles—slowly come into view. Not to mention Lauren's own impressive exotic car collection. Then, soon enough, it's the show, where Ralph Lauren Polo and Collection and Kids looks all intertwine in a yacht rock dance party starring the most gorgeous supermodels and non-models around.
Before you know it Nelly Moudime, The Polo Bar's maître d', is whisking you away to the back, beckoning you to the Tack Room bar, because for just tonight her bar—Ralph's bar—is here, exactly as he likes it, and behind it, is a super-sized version of his restaurant.
To transform the Hamptons equestrian space into its legendary establishment, the Ralph Lauren team sourced familiar elements from its original space—deep-green beadboard walls, warm saddle racks, polo helmets, colorful mallets, brass lanterns, silver champagne bowls, and glass shelves—as well as borrowed paintings, booths, menus, and the restaurant's standard green and white tableware for dinner service. Special for the occasion, though, was a fresh local fish for those who somehow were not in the mood for a burger as well as a Hamptons Spritz.
"I just went here last night," a fellow editor told me at the bar as we went returned for our night cap before the long trek back to Manhattan. "I feel like I'm having déjà vu."