David Zilber was the sous chef of Hawksworth, Canada’s best restaurant, before he became the fermenter-in-chief at Noma, what many have deemed the best restaurant in the world. Now the food scientist is having the best time in his own Copenhagen kitchen, where he believes our culinary future will be far different from what we’ve come to know.
David Zilber photographed in Copenhagen by Jasko Bobar.
David Zilber has a home, but he is not in it. He is at the library, taking my call. It is one that he has visited many times in the years he’s spent inventing ways for old things to taste ambrosian and new in Copenhagen, nearly 4,000 miles from his native Toronto.
Across the narrow Krystalgade street from Copenhagen Main Library is Københavns Synagoge, designed in the early-19th century by architect Gustav Friedrich Hetsch with Egyptian Revival flourish, and in the lobby is Democratic Coffee Bar, a café where Zilber, 38, procures the elixirs necessary to fuel his many hours of inquiry into topics like the ubiquity of stuffed leaves across a boundless number of culinary traditions. At home is his 16-month-old son, Io, who reminds Zilber of himself with his endless “whys,” who makes him smile, and who, Zilber reports with some consternation, is liable to barrel into the background of a conversation—or into Zilber—at any moment, disrupting and perhaps inflicting minor injury on his subjects.
So, Zilber is at the library, and, on the other end of our video call, he appears to be at peace amongst the many volumes. It would be difficult to imagine him—relaxed, with a gently challenging gaze behind wire-rimmed Thom Browne eyeglasses, his hair bleached and shorn, his grin wry—looking even more at home in his actual home, except for the unassailable detail that his actual home also contains a kitchen. But despite his many years behind the scenes in restaurants where you or I couldn’t dream of a walk-in dinner, Zilber’s true dwelling has always been within compendiums of information. Which is not to say he was a star student; it was grades too poor for university, he says, that led him to a prolific career during which he’s made pinecones taste like bubblegum as Noma’s head of fermentation, or now, in his role working with microbial strains at bioscience company Chr. Hansen, where he “uses life to solve a problem in the most natural way possible.”
But, as much as any expat can be at home several thousands of miles from the Canadian high-rise where he grew up disassembling his father’s drills—where he would come to realize that perhaps the years he’d spent volunteering to make cakes for his friends’ birthdays was an indicator of some comestible curiosity—Zilber sits pretty among the library’s collections of storied texts, in the city where he’s now resided for 10 years.
When I go so far as to describe the backlit shelves of books as “chic,” though, Zilber can’t help but retort that he doesn’t know about that. If true, it would be one of the only things he doesn’t know about. He’s made a career out of understanding the esoteric. Like the way a specific strain of lactic acid bacteria can adjust the flavor and texture of soybean like a tuning fork. To Zilber, everything is connected: artificial intelligence, biological intelligence, the fact that he can make dinner at home nearly every night now that his six-plus-year run at Noma has come to an appreciative close. The sausage swinging from the rafters in the Canadian butcher shop where he broke down animals years ago, in another life, made with bacteria that came from the company where he works now. The culinary trends tearing through the world of fine dining today and the way we’ll answer the question, What do you want for dinner? a century or two in the future.
The way he sees it, we’re about to get our comeuppance. “The canary was silent in the coal mine for a while before the pandemic,” he says. Labor shortages, restaurant closures, these were not new phenomena—but they were catalyzed and exacerbated.
“I have fears for the coming 100 years,” he says. “You can’t build an economy where middlemen are expecting to be paid a premium endlessly. You can’t have three men at the top supported by this whole working class that’s being paid borderline minimum wage. The math doesn’t add up. The price of food has been subsidized by cheap labor, cheap oil, or other externalities we haven’t been taking into account for too long.” We’re more or less at the precipice of a culinary-industry Big Short, he thinks—not today, but “you can see the bill is going to come due,” he says. “You will see breaks in the system. Things people want to cook are not available in grocery stores, groceries taking up more of peoples’ income before a chef even transforms it and adds a 60 percent premium to cover his overhead.”
Meanwhile, says Zilber, there’s a cultural creep toward a new sort of luxury. Away from fine dining rooms with €1,500 prix fixe price tags and toward simple authenticity. “I know people who will travel to a small town on the coast of France to eat, not at a Michelin-Starred restaurant, but somewhere where there’s a grandma making bean stew and chickpea panisse,” he says. “The rug has been pulled out beneath us: Everything we were raised to believe will not be given to us. We’ll have to reinvent our definition of luxuriousness and find a new definition of decadence.”
A return to basics isn’t so much avant garde as it is cyclical. “Authenticity has long been this elusive unicorn people all over the world have chased; we got away from that for a while, everything was about tearing apart the establishment and everything needed to be this new version of itself,” he says. These days, more often than not, you’ll find Zilber seeking dinner in his own kitchen. Last night, he made bolognese for his partner and for Io, who he says is “notorious even at daycare for being especially talkative at mealtime when he likes something.” A few nights before that, Zilber put a Thai spin on the Vietnamese dish phở gà, inspired by a recent trip he made to cook in a guest chef series at Hom in Bangkok. In true Zilber fashion, he served guests a “juice” pairing alongside his menu, including a viridescent blend of ice-clarified avocado water and black mint with Thai coriander and sorrel, and lacto-fermented custard apple pulp in jasmine tea. To eat, there was rock lobster, conch, and melon sorbet peppered with ginger lime, served in a rind balanced jauntily in a bowl of crushed ice. Since he’s been back, Zilber’s been keeping it luxuriously simple, with Hainanese chicken one night and dumplings another. Recently, he took Io back to Toronto for his first birthday. It was the first time Zilber has ever felt homesick. Until then, he’d only ever missed the food: Jamaican patties, the spoils of Koreatown, taquerias, oxtail stew, rice and beans. Watching Io get to know the place where he spent so many formative years reminded Zilber of everything the city had afforded him growing up: deeply entwined diversity, warm strangers in coffee shops. It made him think about what it will be like to raise Io in Copenhagen, where he feels at home now. It reminded him of his grandparents, who arrived in Canada speaking only Yiddish, and who watched their children grow up with a language that was not their own.
But Zilber has made a home of his own, in a new city, where he gets to put on a nightly show for a little boy who loves to try the things he’s made: glassy-crisp tonkatsu, yakisoba served with a few wedges of fresh lime, a tureen of mapo tofu. And in the home that he’s made, Zilber relishes watching his son experience the world in his own way, bite by bite. The “joy that stems from feeding your friends and family—and from feeding strangers—from watching them,” he says, is “such a high, a core emotion.”
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Clothes shrink and disappear under the unforgiving, white-hot summer sun. But for the whimsical and inspired, the bone-dry heat is no match for the fantasy of getting dolled up. Wools, gowns, hats, tinsel, and sequins are, after all, a glamorous barrier against sunburn—and when the Mediterranean breeze rolls into the eastern coast, they rustle, billow, and glisten to the rhythm of castanets in the distance.
The fashion creations of Torishéju Dumi reveal equal parts distortion and elegance, inspired at once by Nigerian mysticism and a myriad of familial anecdotes.
Not too long ago, style was truly personal. Outfits offered a safe and temporal space to experiment with identity, says Stefano Tonchi. Clothes faded back into the closet after the day was finished, sans digital footprint.
Captured by many but only really known by a few, Carolyn Murphy has conquered ubiquity while preserving the sanctity of mystery. But who is the fashion chameleon when she steps back from the glaring spotlight? As the legendary model confides to long-time collaborator Michael Kors: whoever she wants to be.
Fleshy eggplant, a recovered Rolex, and the breadcrumbs of a forgotten night—what goes bump by the light of the moon often surprises when revealed the morning after.
Issey Miyake Homme Plissé releases the first wave of items from its new collection with Ronan Bouroullec, a harmonious blend of billowy silhouettes and gestural strokes.
We realize the magic of making something out of nothing when we’re young. Tire swings spiral beneath large oak trees, and scraps of fabric and jewel-toned yarn billow into ready-made couture gowns. As time passes by and materials fade into well-worn memories, this world-building persists, appearing when and where we least expect it.
Mass produced or hand crafted, decorative or practical, an object always has a subliminal use. Pens to write, clothes to wear, books to read. We see a shape and innately know what to do with it. But what if we didn’t? What if, for a moment, we willed ourselves to forget—and instead of utility, we saw limitless possibility?
Inspired by their dual practices in observance—of shapes, of textures, of objects—Andrés Jaña and Javier Irigoyen examine the temporality of objects and the rhythms and expressions they reveal when given the space to be.
Prized possessions do not arrive often, but when they do, they stay long, inhabiting the warm corners of our lives. These are the materials that distinguish our environments, the poetic flairs that find their way into descriptions of our personhood. She makes her coffee at home, eats an egg from a silver cup, pins her singular style on shoes and bags, and treasures the tangible: well-crafted silverware, china, objects for memories to coalesce.
Paloma Elsesser is an everywoman in a monomyth. The supermodel has spent her hot ascent to fame atop a pedestal built, in many ways, to reduce its subject to material matter. Her resilience and humanity pervades. This fascination with the charged nature of physicality reverberates in the work of Ser Serpas, the artist who choreographs found objects into animated, poetic, and dystopian scenes.
Banana Republic’s 2024 Summer collection is rooted in optimistic escapism. Starring American model Taylor Hill, the brand’s latest campaign transports to sun-splashed spots in Mérida, Mexico.
During any other ski season, Axel de Beaufort, Véronique Nichanian, and Christophe Goineau might find themselves independently gliding down the fluffy runs of the Swiss Alps. But this past winter, the three Hermès creatives headed west to Aspen, Colorado.
The finalists of this year’s LVMH prize include a diverse range of emerging designers united by sustainability, ethical practices, and an emphasis on womenswear.
Precious metals shimmer as hands dance across a long wooden dining room table to embrace, pass plates, raise toasts, emote. A familiar symphony of family heirlooms, tokens of love, and pendants of personal eccentricities clink and rattle as some float in and others assume their seats at the table.
Little blue boxes have always accented Lauren Santo Domingo’s life. But as she settles into her new role at Tiffany & Co., she’s gathered new memories from its storied archives.
Lafayette 148’s new capsule collection with Claire Khodara and Grace Fuller Marroquin commemorates the life and legacy of their artist mother, Martha Madigan.
Almost six decades after its original release, a French New Wave classic is recreated in a new short film for Chanel. Directed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, the tribute brings together Penélope Cruz and Brad Pitt on screen for the very first time.
In its first foray outside of Paris, the luxury fashion house opens its first flagship store on New Bond Street. The three-story boutique blends fine art and haute couture.
After two years of renovation, the French fashion house reopens its Highland Park Village doors with an intimate and object-filled foray into its history that is firmly rooted in the present.
The hidden meanings and influences behind Simone Rocha’s awe-inspiring designs are explored in-depth for the first time in a new book set to be published in September of this year.
From the films of David Lynch to the music of Nina Simone, the late American composer Angelo Badalamenti’s haunting compositions left an indelible mark. Now this fashion house is underscoring his legacy.
Gucci’s new SoHo outpost is more than just a beautiful boutique. The over 10,000-square-foot-space doubles as an art gallery with works by Alghiero Boetti and Sasha Stiles in a program curated by Truls Blaasmo.
Style.com was ahead of its time, bringing some closer to the runway—and others to one another—more than ever before. For Family Style's debut print issue, several editors from the legendary digital platform reunited for brunch at Paris’ gilded Cheval Blanc to reminisce about their glory days of street style, cutthroat story turnarounds, and changing the world.
“The New Village: Ten Years of New York Fashion'' at Pratt Manhattan Gallery makes the case that the city’s D.I.Y. sensibilities still pack a punch in a sartorial group show that fuses art and design.
Amongst the treasures of Love House's new NYC design gallery, Family Style found beauty, inspiration, and even obsession for Valentine's Day. Can you blame us?
Why are so many culinary creatives covered in tattoos? Family Style met with six beautiful New Yorkers making beautiful food and beverages and stripped them down to find out more.
Peter Do and Trisha Do grew up near each other in Vietnam, but the pair didn’t become friends until meeting each other across the world, where they bonded over their shared experiences and cooking as an expression of love.
After a year’s-worth of wants, wonts, and will-I-evers, it’s finally time for the main event of the season: gifts. Take Family Style's inaugural holiday tasting menu, which spans fashion, accessories, and trophies for the home, less as an ordained prescription and more of a cherished collection of desires; many of which will surely bring a smile to a loved one’s face as well as your own, of course.
In her new Family Style column, Whitney Mallett investigates the prep power of Buck Ellison's art book—making sense of Brandy Melville and American exclusion trending in an election year.
For chef Chinchakriya Un, food is a medium for preserving memories of Cambodia, its history, its culture, and its flavor. For a collaboration with New Inc.’s Creative Science Dinner, she brought it all to the table, as she shares with the organization's director Salome Asega.
In New York, Russell Steinberg is bringing fresh energy to the locale in a deeply personal vision in the form of new restaurant Cecilia on Saint Marks.
Innovative and extreme, Family Style's Fall 2024 issue guest chef Laila Gohar has never been one to stop short of her imagination—just ask the thousands that stare in awe at her larger-than-life food installations.
Pop-ups are a dime a dozen in New York, the food capital of the world with the least patience. So what happens when The Polo Bar, one of the most difficult restaurants to get a table at, temporarily exits the city? Magic.
Three decades after Thomas Keller reinvigorated The French Laundry in Napa, California, the eatery still remains one of the best in the world. Michael Minnillo, the restaurant's oldest employee turned general manager, explains why.
In the heart of Portland, Oregon, where the culinary scene is as eclectic as the city itself, Gregory Gourdet interweaves centuries of history with his own memories. For Family Style No. 1, the James Beard Award-winning chef has imagined a unique three-course menu that is as powerful as it is personal.
A noncommittal referral and blocks of over-appealing options in Galway, Ireland left vacationer Ella Quittner wondering if Daróg should be the first of three dinners. But the boutique wine bar changed her mind.
Francis Mallmann has lived many lives. He’s pioneered open-fire cooking, built his own restaurants from the ground up—plus a museum—and even picked up embroidery. Through it all, Family Style's Summer 2024 guest chef has learned lessons that make life a little sweeter.
Alain Ducasse began quietly leading a plant-based revolution in the late ’80s, and has continued to experiment with vegetable-forward haute cuisine since. It’s an appetite to better the world that he shares with Daniel Humm, whose creative culinary philosophy has both amazed—and even angered.
When it’s apple season in England, the Somerset-raised, London-based photographer knows just what to do. He pulls out his family’s tarte tatin recipe and whips up the beloved classic.
Over the last few years, temaki-style sushi joints have become the go-to fast-but-not-casual rage for New Yorkers with no time to waste. Despite the endless options to dine at, these four should stay top of mind.
Sydney Vernon infuses her work with tender and intimate snapshots of Black life. Her own memories of childhood find their way into her art—and her meals, like her mother’s turkey spinach quiche.
Graphic designer Naomi Otsu shares her tried-and-true recipe for her all-curing soba noodle soup, a dish that transports the native New Yorker back to her formative years in Tokyo.
The New York-based photographer shares her recipe for scalloped potatoes and roasted autumn vegetables, a minimalist pairing that brings her comfort whenever she’s in need.
Lately, the city has been raptured by novelty eateries that use exclusivity as a commodity. These tried and true staples—which you can actually get a table at—serve good food without the artifice.
David Zilber was the sous chef of Hawksworth, Canada’s best restaurant, before he became the fermenter-in-chief at Noma, what many have deemed the best restaurant in the world. Now the food scientist is having the best time in his own Copenhagen kitchen, where he believes our culinary future will be far different from what we’ve come to know.
The enigmatic musician and visual artist imbues everything she does with poetry. Here, she shares a boiled potatoes recipe that will warm both stomachs and hearts.
The luxury fashion house opens its debut restaurant and coffee shop in Jakarta, Indonesia. The dual dining establishments take inspiration from the brand’s New York roots—topped with a lifesize replica of the iconic yellow taxi cab.
Ruinart toasts to its year-long artist collaboration program with a Frieze LA dinner celebrating Andrea Bowers and her dedication to environmental justice.
Antonio D’Angelo oversees all of Giorgio Armani’s culinary empire, including Nobu Milano. When Covid-19 put a halt to importing produce from Asia, the executive chef decided to take matters into his own hands, opening his own wasabi farm in Northern Italy of all places.
Forensic chemist Sissel Tolaas has researched the smell of everything from David Beckham’s armpits to Balenciaga’s storied archives. Now, she’s designing scents for The Met.
Finnish-born Tiina Laakkonen has bested all aspects of the fashion industry. Now that she’s sunset her iconic, minimalist Hamptons boutique, what’s the shopkeeper to do? Everything.
For the last four years, I've gone to sleep with and woken up beside Sophia Loren. More specifically: a life-sized poster of the actress and a giant sausage from the film La Mortadella hangs across her bed. The only thing crazier than the plot of the absurdist 1971 movie is the fact that I've never seen it—until now.
Friends and family from fashion, art, and interiors commuted to the Long Island City, New York gem to celebrate the magazine's Summer 2024 design edition and sip on summer cocktails inside its newly-revealed space.
At Salone del Mobile 2024, Family Style presented a first look at the magazine's Summer 2024 design issue in the form of an ephemeral exhibition with Sophia Roe and DRIFT.
Flaky fried chicken, buttery biscuits, plenty of okra, and an unbelievable backdrop: Family Style's SCADStyle dinner in Savannah, Georgia felt like a scene right out of a Hollywood picture.
In collaboration with Banana Republic, the magazine celebrated its brand launch at the iconic New York restaurant with an intimate dinner full of creativity, culinary, and familiar connections.
Awol Erizku, Annie Philbin, Casey Fremont, Tariku Shiferaw joined Marriott International's Jenni Benzaquen and artist Sanford Biggers at one of Los Angeles’ most iconic institutions for a lush dinner by Alice Waters celebrating art and travel.
At a landmark Manhattan farm at the end of New York Climate Week, Family Style hosted a sensorial round table for the urgency of climate action and the celebratory spirit of a shared meal.
Between the bountiful California vines and the centuries-old oak trees, Family Style kicks off a quartet of intimate cultural dinners around America in ripe Yountville, California.